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Book -Asperges : le mode d´emploi de Bruno Tenailleau (Asparagus: The Manual by Bruno Tenailleau)

How to cook asparagus>. White, green or purple, chef Bruno Tenailleau offers 3 recipes on how to prepare and cook asparagus to get all the flavours and succeed every time.

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As with any cooking, we want to exalt the characteristic aromas without diluting perfumes. The theory is amusing but in concrete terms, what do you do with a bunch of asparagus?
""If you do not know exactly what you can expect from your asparagus, you should avoid doing anything unpleasant.""
First : overcooked asparagus Soft and floppy, it has lost all its aromas and absorbed the cooking water. To avoid catastrophe, just reduce the cooking time and the volume of water using the right cooking utensil. Bruno Tenailleau boils the salted water in a pan! Plant the tip of a knife to check the cooking.
And stringy bitterness? To this question, Bruno Tenailleau has a definitive answer: ""No hesitation: remove one-third or cut in half!"" The lower part will be used, but for a small amount of tasting asparagus, only the head will be kept.
To avoid green asparagus becoming bitter, cook more slowly. This can generate earthy notes that mask the asparagus. Bruno Tenailleau cooked separately and used mainly accompany to go with juice or soup.
For the tips, as for any cooking, you should know when to stop. Raw asparagus is not very pleasant in the mouth. Its predominantly grassy taste masks the flavours we are seek. In contrast, when overcooked, you get soft fibres and a watery taste that is of no interest. Overcooked asparagus becomes unpleasant on the nose too. To demonstrate the evolution of the savours of asparagus in cooking, Chef Tenailleau quickly makes two recipes:
- a ""half-raw / half-cooked"". He blanches the asparagus by plunging it for 1 or 2 minutes in salted boiling water and completes the cooking by transferring to the pan with a little olive oil. It´s very quick and served warm, it´s absolutely delicious
. - Traditional ""English"" cooking (salt water) will stop immediately in iced water.
In the first case, there is a delicate contrast between the green notes and cooked notes. The taste of grass is gone, the texture is crisp and delicate. A dash of olive oil, a pinch of Espelette pepper and sea salt are enough to make all the aromas dance.
For his second recipe, the asparagus tips simmer for about 7 minutes in salted water. He checks the progress of the cooking by pricking a knife into the body of the asparagus. When only asparagus remains planted on the knife, it´s time to stop cooking by plunging the asparagus into a bowl of iced water. Why?
The salt increases the boiling temperature and the asparagus takes less time to cook and therefore absorbs less water. The salt is fixed and stored and the chlorophyll has a nice colour. By stopping the cooking, it stops where you want! The vegetables do not continue to cook. In addition, the vegetable is strengthened by thermal shock.
This method gives a less contrasted result! The real bouquet of asparagus remains present. To further reveal the richness of the aromas, Bruno Tenailleau trims the asparagus and accentuates the flavour with an orange vinaigrette. He also proposes to increase the product´s freshness effect, accompany with chives in sherry vinegar and a little salt. This asparagus, cooked more than in the first recipe, brings to the mouth and nose warmer flavours that are highlighted slight bitterness of some fromage blanc.
And the stalks... Bruno Tenailleau proposes making juice! The idea may seem preposterous but prepare to be amazed!
Cooked in the English style (in salted water) with fennel to give an aniseed flavour, take the asparagus stalk out of the water when they no longer stick to the knife. This time, the cooking is slower and it takes a good twenty minutes. Without draining, press the asparagus stalks in a Hurom juicer.
Why? Since the stalks are cooked for a long time, the asparagus has imbibed water. Bruno Tenailleau here considers the water to be an ingredient that should penetrate and bring something to the asparagus. Reduced to juice, the texture problem disappears, but without the contribution of the fennel and aniseed, we obtain juice that has a taste of water. The aromas are not related. Cooked with fennel, the taste of water disappears, and well cooked asparagus finds renewed strength of taste. It is a delight to taste like this and you can use it in soup or a sauce for fish, or you can make a savoury sorbet. There are many other possible uses, but Bruno Tenailleau prefers to let everyone´s imagination wander and leave the door wide open for creativity ...
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